Beyond Cheesesteaks: The Foods of Philly

I will cover cheesesteaks, but I have to start with the two items that are tied for best foods of Philadelphia.

Tomato Pie

I’ve heard tomato pie described as both a cool snack for the summers and a working-class breakfast. I understand the dough may be a little different than pizza crust, but it’s basically pizza without the cheese served at room temp. But you can’t get away with weak sauce, since there’s nothing else to cover up your tomato game.

If you’re the type who has ever said of pizza, “sauce is boss,” then you’ll love tomato pie.

Scrapple

Philly is known for Italian-American food like tomato pie, but this equal contender descends from the Amish and Mennonites of the mid-Atlantic. Those fundamentalist utilitarians are loathe to waste food, so scrapple is the pig’s head, heart, liver and other trimmings blended with cornmeal, boiled down (so fully cooked) and formed into a mold like Spam. You cut into slices, bread it and fry it up.

Living in Latin America will convert any macho que se respeta into an offal aficionado, as it did with me. I started with Peruvian cow hearts and Colombian morcilla before developing cravings for chicken gizzards and even Arequipa-style chitterlings. I don’t know what it is about offal that gives you cravings. I crave scrapple now, so Sundays in the Post home are Scrapple Sundays (celebrated by me alone).

I’ve found city natives say things like, you can’t slice it too thin or fry it too hard. It should be mushy inside. I’ve one-upped that by cutting 1/3 pound patties (my pic above). If I have leftovers, I’ll make a scrapple-egg-and-cheese sandwich.

Cheesesteaks

You can get cheesesteaks anywhere in the States, and probably a little beyond. I didn’t dislike them, but I never thought much of them. If you’re also indifferent, you may appreciate a few tweaks easily available in Philly. Order them with “sauce and peppers” … Gamechanger.

With taste covered, you just have to get is the digestive havoc. Maybe I’m getting old, but thin-sliced sirloin / ribeye fried in oil topped with fried onions and cheese doesn’t sit well with me over the course of the day. That’s why the Post family gets cheesesteaks once a quarter at most. The many Philadelphians who agree opt for roast pork (next entry).

Cheesesteaks originally came with cheese whiz / American cheese, but don’t feel bad if you prefer white cheese. Everywhere offers provolone. The places that don’t offer whiz / American are completely off the beaten path and never see tourists. In fact, disparaging certain cheesesteaks as touristy is as much a local custom as booing sports teams.

My pick for Philly’s best cheesesteak, recommended by a native, is Mama’s in Bala Cynwyd. Perusing the web for a pic, I found the local newspaper agrees.

Roast Pork

For those who agree that cheesesteaks are overrated, local go-to is roast pork. A little easier on the constitution with slow-roasted pork, provolone and broccoli rabe (common local topping for everything).

Pork roll a.k.a. Taylor ham is another Philly / South Jersey sandwich worthy of mention for its popularity, but in my opinion nothing to write home about.

Water Ice

Pronounced “wooder ice” in the local accent, water ice is essentially Italian ice and often compared to a snow cone or slurpee. It’s thinly shaved ice drenched in syrup. I prefer a naturally flavored syrup like lemon or cherry, but you can find flavors like bubble gum and root beer. Some water ice is thick to stand up in a cup, requiring a spoon. Some is served without even a straw and melts as you carry it on a hot and humid summer day.

I’m a convert to water ice because it’s lighter than ice cream. I don’t know if it’s fair to call it healthy, but it’s at least hydrating.

Soft Pretzels

Soft pretzels are so ubiquitous that it wouldn’t occur to me to call them local, but Philadelphians’ affinity for them warrants mention. Soft pretzels seem to be everywhere all the time. And I learned that southeast Pennsylvania is known as the pretzel belt.

Tastykakes

This local brand’s processed-food cakes make the list for the same reason as pretzels. Butterscotch krimpets are the signature flavor.

In sum, I’d say about Philadelphia cuisine that I’ve probably understated the importance and ubiquity of Italian-American cuisine. I know a woman, not a native, but an aficionado of Italian, who will not eat Italian food when traveling, even in New York, because it’s not as good as Philadelphia’s.